>>Bolts are subject to their highest stress during installation, technically if they don't fail now then they never will. The other 3 were alright, simply because they didn't quite reach their limit, proper torque setting is roughly 75% of yeild point, so it's pretty close to fecking them up.<<
That’s good to know, as long as I can replace the damaged one then I am home free – I hope!
>>Extensions give false readings, they twist very slightly and you overtighten the fastener, use long sockets or bloody strong extensions not typical junk ones.<<
I will re check all the bolts main and crank – without an extension bar. The bar I use is a stubby 2/3 inches. I will check them all though to be sure, I am sure all but the one that went are fine and going on what you have said above that confirms they probably are.
>>Do you only hold the wrench by the handle or do you hold the head too Torque wrenches should only be held at the handle, not even supported by the head.?<<
I would simply guide the head so it stays seated on the bolt. I didn’t want the socket slipping off the bolt – I will recheck as you suggest using the method you describe. Can holding the head lightly throw the gauge out that much?
>>Put it this way, i've got smaller standard bolts in the garage that could take that torque. I'm not sure whats going on but something isn't right here, and I know all the rumours but i honestly don't think its the ARP's at fault. This is a very exact science that goes back to the days of steam, the practice is slightly less accurate but people seem to manage every day. <<
I expect the stock Toyota bolts would have done the job no issue but sadly they don’t fit the rods
Still its only one failure that is unexplained and 4 that went due to my stupidity – so it could just have been a number of factors that threw everything out and meant the bolt failed. Let’s see what happens when I replaced it fingers crossed it all works out.
Cheers
James