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PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 7:55 am 
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THanks again. Perhaps I'd be better off not doing a tapped hole then, but rather using the mounting supplied, so the nozzle can be positioned proper like. Thanks for the offer of drill and tap for loan Trev. I'm pretty well sorted for tools though so I'll be ok.
I'll be testing what I've already done later on today then will probably relocate once I've got a suitable plug for the hole I've made in the rubber pipe. Trev, is there anything you can supply for this?

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:19 pm 
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Yes we can fix you up with a blank.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 7:22 pm 
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Most likely but it depends on the type of carb you use.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:14 pm 
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Image

Trev, quoting this pic, I am about to do a similar install...

What do you say about placing the fogger into the rubber pipe section which connects the throttle body?? (in the pic will be moving it a little to the left)..

thats the only bit I am not to sure on now.. I am trying to avoid putting a hole in the hard pipe like everyone else here.

Pete, how is the whole progress???

thanks for any info.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:35 pm 
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The best place for distribution is further to the right at the highest point of the hard pipe (this is also the most awkward place to fit it and would have to be tapped), however the rubber is an easier option and since the Crossfire does have a wide spray pattern, you may get away with fitting it in the rubber.
Either way twist the injector so the discharge is spiral.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:37 pm 
The only problem with putting it into the rubber pipe is having enough room and being careful the injector outlet holes clear the throttle body inlet enough, he's already said by the throttle body is best on the Nissan


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:42 pm 
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thanks Trev,

will have a go at the rubber section tomorrow.

I have chosen to mount the pulsoids by the chassis numbers (top left of the photos..

Any comments on that?? Exhaust is on the other side of the engine...

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:50 pm 
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The picture is hard to tell the length that the outlput lines would be. As long as you keep the output line length as short as possible (12" or shorter) and keep heat away as best as possible then your mounting location is fine.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:04 pm 
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Thats my car :), the lines coming out of the pulsoids are approx 7" long


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:16 pm 
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I believe Turbo is wanting to mount his solenoids on the white sheetmetal in the far left corner of the picture where the stamped numbers are. I have no idea how long this would make the lines?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:19 pm 
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I would guess it would make them approx 14" long


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:53 pm 
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Jake,

I'd being aiming to mount the Pulsoids more forward of your suggested position, near the end of brake servo to keep the pipes as short as possible (as well as cool Pulsoids).
Off the nearest strut brace bolt would probably be best. ;-)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 12:34 am 
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It's not my question mr Wizard, the pic is of my system, and I like the pulsoids where they are....I am not moving them :)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 3:56 pm 
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Hi Jake.

sorry to have hijacked your photo.

I have completed the install today (just) but the weather is too crap for test driving..

I have mounted the solenoids at the back near the brake servo, the pipes are around 12" long. I have the injectors in the rubber section as I mentioned last night.

However, the result of the static test is a little unexpected.. I used 20 / 50 jets reving at around 2200 rpm (redline at 7k), it climbed slowly (i did it for about 13 secs) and it pretty much stopped at 3600 rpm...

I thought I am running a little too rich. so I swapped to 20 /60 jets thinking the nittrous is cold ( I warmed the bottle up to about room temp) and tried. Same again.

i am not getting anywhere near people say 1k off redline.

Can any of you comment on this?

p.s. where the pulsoids are mounted are a little warm.. I might have to move it somewhere else. However, that is with car standing still with not much wind blowing in.

Thanks everyone.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 4:02 pm 
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When you say you warmed the bottle up to room temperature, how long was this? Feeling the outside of the bottle will give you "no" indication of the inside temps and pressure. A presure gauge would greatly help in having a better grasp on things.

The static test should only have to be done for a few seconds and 13 is to long.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 4:30 pm 
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But a few seconds the rev don't pick up quick enough....But anyway, it settled at around 3600 rpm ish...

I left the bottle in a different car running with a full heater on for about 15 mins (bottle placed in front of the vents)... Sorry thats the best I can do to warm it up although its not the best / proper way.

Also, is it normal that fuel is only flowing out and not "gushing" out?? I checked it all over before i put them in the Cross fire, and of course the nitrous blasted out but the fuel was only flowing out........

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 5:12 pm 
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Your fuel pressure is 'much' lower and doesn't blast out like the nitrous. That's why the cross-fire is unique in that it picks up more fuel unlike some style injectors where the fuel can just drip off the top and not get picked up well.

We would have to know what the plugs look like after a road test to be more conclusive? Does the motor sound likes it's stumbling while doing the static test? Some applications can be as high as a 4:1 jet ratio so don't worry quite yet.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 5:42 pm 
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When the weather permits. i will take it out tomorrow..

No, no stumbling really, as soon as i activate the system, the rev dropped a bit and soon picked up, but rised slowly and stayed st about 3600... not sure if it makes any difference but I have a slightly uprated fuel pump than stock.

the worst thing about the nos on my car is that the bloody plugs are a bump to get into, so taking it out and putting it in a few times would have taken me a whole day :lol:

by the way, the throttle casing freezed after the static test. well it sounds normal as the jet is at an angle facing the body ....

Thanks........


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 5:59 pm 
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Getting frost is common while doing a static test as you have very little incoming air that is moving the nitrous along. Once on the road you usually don't have any issues.

Some plug checks are a pain in the ass but even if using a dyno you should do plugs checks as this is the most accurate if you know what to look for. Having a broken plug is common yet a motor can run fine and not be felt for the most part.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 6:02 pm 
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@Turboflyer66, I've tested my install today now that I've got the TPS switch working. My pipe is where I'd said I would put it - before the bend. When I static tested the revs picked up straight away. I don't think the engine is supposed to rev to 1k off the red line. From what I gather it should just be a rise in revs that stays constant until the button is released. Is this correct? There was certainly no bogging. I had trouble trying to see the exhaust from where I was standing under the bonnet though.

On the road - 40mph in 3rd, floored the accelerator and it kicked ass immediately (to the annoyance of the Merc CL500 driver sitting on my bumper). Definitely a lack in turbo lag now - the turbo just spooled up so fast and this is with only the 25hp kit. Just shows that out and out power isn't the only thing - but more important is how things work together such as the way it kicks the turbo into life. That on it's own would save a second or more I reckon on a 1/4 run or a 0 to 60 time.

Forgot to set the record function on my boost controller so not sure if the boost spiked much above what I had set (0.7bar for testing, usually run 0.85). I'll have another go tomorrow when the roads aren't totally wet and when I've got number plates on the car (went out and forgot to put my trade plates on, and hadn't got the proper plates made up yet - sorry officer!).

Also, I need to run some octane booster (Millers CVL) as I'm still set on the Apexi PFC for 100RON, and with 98RON both with and without nitrous I'm getting the det warning light flashing. But I've been told that the det warning light doesn't mean the engine is detting, and there's certainly no noise indication of det. Like I said, this is also the case without nitrous. I've also been told that the other indication that this light gives is that the O2 sesor is being overwhelmed - so it may be that instead. Bloody 'puters! Far better in the old days when you just listen, smell and feel for things!

Another job for tomorrow is drilling and tapping the inlet pipe at the high point before the TB. Got hold of a 10mm fine pitch tap today - this is also the tap that's needed for brake line nuts and stuff. Also bought a 10 fine bolt to fill said hold if I need to in the future.

I'll post pictures up tomorrow.

Trev, if you read this far is there any chance you can check out my details for previous orders (last one was a couple of days ago for some nuts and olives and a pipe connector) - and send me a blanking plug for my rubber pipe. Please debit the same card I used last time.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 6:11 pm 
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Pete,

is yours a pregressive system or one hit??

what was the rev when u did the static test??

what was the rev when you activate the system?? (40mph in 3rd)??

I will give it a go on the road tomorrow...

thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 6:57 pm 
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The kit I have is a one hit. Will think about progessive when I get to 75hp jets.

I did the static at 2500rpm. Couldn't see the rev counter but it sounded like the revs rose to maybe 4000 to 4500 rpm. I wasn't really too concered what the revs rose to as all I was looking for was a swift rise in revs which is what I got. This indicated that the system was working: extra fuel + extra O2 from the nitrous = more power (increase in revs). If only fuel had flowed then the engine would have bogged, if only nitrous had flowed then I guess something else would have happened.

When I did the road test, 40mph in 3rd was just under 4000 rpm.

One thing I didn't do was check the plugs due to the hassle of removing the coilpack cover. It's something I should do tomorrow so I'll probably take the cover off and leave it off. It's been suggested anyway that the coilpacks on the Skyline often fail early and this could be from excess heat, so leaving the cover off could be a good thing!

My next concern is going to be the clutch - not sure if mine's already uprated but I have a feeling I could be almost on the limit of what's there anyway.

Whereabouts are you? Perhaps we'll have to meet up for some "head to head" testing :D

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:15 pm 
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Hehe a Nitrous Skyline club, I am liking the sound of that ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 9:07 pm 
Right, just to clarify this.
(sometimes it doesn't work but 99% of the time it does.
Fit 25hp jets
for a progressive system set it to 2 second build, 100% final
hold RPM at 2/3rds of redline.
Activate system.

Runs above redline or looks like it will = LEAN STOP TEST
Runs 500 - 1000 below redline = Lucky guess, confirm with road test / plug check
Runs 1000 + below redline = RICH, confirm with road test / plug check.

If the test takes more than about 4 ? seconds then its not happy, and knocking, banging, coughing means it isn't happy.
Freezing the inlet / throttle isn't unusual, this sometimes blocks idle by-pass holes and causes the engine to die after the static test, an over rich test can also make the engine stop after the test due to plug fouling, an over rich test could be caused by plugs / ignition not being able to light the mixture.

Plug checks are nessesary and you can't just skip it (nor should you be racing with possibly a bad mixture !)
roughly 3rd gear, hit nitrous, wait for full power, hold full power then kill the engine while stamping the clutch and carefully coast to a halt.
CAUTION: Do not hit ignition lock, beware you may only be able to use the brakes a couple of times before the vacuum servo empties, you will lose power steering.
Plugs should look slightly darker than a non nitrous run for now.
Don't be afraid of activating the system early, especially on 25hp. Hit it at any RPM as long as you're in a gear it can pull easily.

Pete> it sounds like you've seen the light as far as what nitrous can do !
Detonation lights shouldn't be ignored but can be triggered by bloody anything.
Watch your boost, nitrous can spike it horribly if your controller can't react quick enough

Turbo> The fuel should barely dribble out of the injector, it won't be atomising like the pictures on the bottles of injector cleaner.
15minutes by a car heater won't do anything except warm the outside of the bottle, but on that jetting i would have thought its ignition related and not jet related.
However it is bloody cold at the moment so everyone on ambient jetting is a bit rich at the moment.
Uprating the fuel pump can cause issues with too high fuel pressure at low RPM, has your been checked / certain your model isn't prone to it ?
To confirm one way or another do a plug check then leave the bottle in the house for several hours at least, overnight if possible and try again, if its the same then its an ignition related problem.
If I've missed anything, let me know.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:32 am 
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On a turbo car, is says to place the fogger right after the intercooler
to maximize the cooling afect. Isn't this a bad idea because fuel will
have more surfice area to cling on?

When the throttle closes they'll still be fuel/nitrous in the tubes won't it?


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