NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

Agreed although I'd go one further and say the ONLY plug leads worth buying are Magnecor, which is one US brand motor product that is the best in the world.

BTW this is what my coil pack looks like:

The good thing about extensive struggling to succeed, is that you have a greater potential to learn more.

I just reviewed the footage and it seems like the breakup point hasn't moved any from before, even though it seems that way. I can't rely on any internet info for my problem as there is SO much BS that people spout out on forums that there is NO REAL information out there to help me solve this. I'm really banking on this amp working for me.

P.S.

Here is a graph comparing the 3 runs for TODAY May 27. All runs start at 50% with a 2 second ramp up.

One was the nitrous engaged early which brought the torque higher than the other two that were engaged at 3k, and it also ended early because it broke up earlier. Logically, the torque of the early hit should continue to tower over the other two for a while until they intersect after the other two runs achieve 100% on the ramp.




Here is the other comparo with the two similar 50 runs done today, and the 25 run that was done a couple of weeks ago. See any real difference? Because I sure don't the 25 hit had MORE torque because that was activated at 2k rather than 3k like the 50 runs.

I doubt the Amp will fix the misfire.

1) How many sets of plugs have you used/tried while suffering this MISFIRE?

2) Have you measured the resistance of each individual coil, if not please do so and report back to me?

3) Measure the resistance of the HT spring connection components

4) Have you checked all wires and connection relating to the ignition system - electrical components (including wire itself), do not last long when subjected to heat and a turbo pumps out more heat than NA motors - most ignition misfires are due to simple electrical failures, like broken wires.

Here's a perfect example; the V12 Jag that we were given to work on for the TV Program Top Gear, suffered from random misfires and I eventually tracked it down to the 2 Siamesed wires that connected the distributor to the ignition pack. The heat had made the wire insulation hard and brittle and it had cracked HALF WAY THROUGH. The constant flexing of the hard insulation either side of the crack, eventually cracked the wire conductors and the flexing caused the conductivity of the wire to break intermittently. Luckily I managed to locate the problem MINUTES before we were due to race and I put in a temp fix, otherwise these historic vids wouldn't have been possible;

http://www.noswizard.com/videos/TopGearJagOrig.wmv

http://www.noswizard.com/videos/OurJagEdited_0001.wmv

exactly what i have fitted on my fiesta

Just realised that Alex doesn't need any HT leads as his coils are directly over the plugs. The coil springs/wires are effectively the HT leads on his car.

ANOTHER possible cause is that the intake runners each contain a RESTRICTION with the purpose of creating turbulence of the air for improved fuel/air mixing at low speeds (my guess is to achieve the best fuel economy possible at the time). Porting of the intake manifold is a common modification on the 1.4 turbo with many reports of improved performance with data performed by speed shops (swapping manifolds each time), and there is a clear benefit of removing these "walls" in the runners. Reports also stated that most of the improvement occurs SPECIFICALLY beyond 5,500 RPM.

My suspicion is that the restriction is limiting the flow into the engine and the higher the rpm, the worse the power drop off. On top of all that, the nitrous mix must also pass that point and that the mixture in the combustion chamber could be just too rich for the stock ignition to light off the charge since the majority of the air is behind the wall and the fuel injection point is after it.

I may try to track down an intake manifold in the scrap yard to port and test it.

If that doesn't work, then there is another modification (free to do) that could help, which has to do with the computer venting off boost pressure in order to regulate torque output.

So I still have some work to do to achieve the ULTIMATE economy car street basher!

I AM DETERMINED!!!

The restriction is nasty but I doubt that's the cause of the misfire.

I've never heard of a primary coil firing secondary coils, so I've no idea how to check such an arrangement. I can't even imagine how that could work, as the primary coil would have to fire ALL 4 secondary coils at the same time and although I know that's possible, I'm surprised any OEM uses it.
I guess it must have a primary HT lead between the primary coil and the secondary coil pack, so have you measured the resistance of that???

Unless my memory has gone to hell, those values of 5.5K & 12K are EXTREMELY HIGH compared to the values I'm used to working with, so where are you measuring those?

I'm going to try a NEW coil unit in the end because I found a healthy number of information regarding defective/prematurely failing coils on these engines. I will also make note of the resitance values of the new unit and compare them to the current one to see if it is really out of whack. There is NO info regarding resistance values for this coil.

I'd say that was a wise move.

Let's hope we can eclipse a healthy ~230 lb ft peak & 210 lb ft average torque with nothing but fuel straight from the pump. That would prove that nitrous can make comparable performance (aka better and CHEAPER) to other similar setups consisting of upgraded injectors, E85, endless tunes, expensive exhaust kits, and COSTLY turbo upgrades that barely yield any extra power: mods that typically sacrifice economy and reliability by a GREAT DEAL!

No updates for the moment except that I did recieve the new, updated part for the ignition coil pack and the boost-a-spark. I compared the values between the new coil and the old one and there isn't much diffference at all in the resistance values. However, I did discover, after performing my own electrical detective work, that the coil 12v positive SHARES power with the fuel injectors. That's right, the fuel injectors are also tied into the coil pack's power, which means that they both are working hard at high rpm, high boost, and nitrous.

In the spirit of troubleshooting, I'll go for a test run with the new coil pack ONLY and see if it misfires or not. If not, I can try the boost a spark module.

If you haven't already done so (which you probably have), I'd also make sure that the Pulsoids don't get a feed from the same source.

I tested the car again with the same result. I'm also going to (for the sake of testing ALL of the variables) do a fuel injector flow and spray pattern test to make sure that all injectors are firing equally. When I road tested the jetting, the plugs were all even and in excellent shape. If I'm satisfied that they are ok, then I'll move on with the amp box. I'm also going to check boost pressure to see if the car is taking boost away with the power increase, these modern ECU's are such dicks when it comes to limiting power.

Can't wait for you to discover what the cause of the problem is and to experience the full power it should unleash.

I have been reading your updates, but didnt really have anything to add...

but im eagerly awaiting the out come of the ignition amplifier

The problem is found.

You can't just leave it at that, you'll have to complete what sounds like it's going to be a confession!!!!