This is the farthest I've ever really gone on nitrous because with the US JUNK I had it would have either A) fail to deliver the correct performance (as WON has FAR exceeded that of the old NOS kit) or B) blown some part of the engine by now. The fact is that only now I am realizing how to overcome certain weaknesses and situations that need to be strengthened in order to make power. I've never come across having ignition issues like this before (even on other turbo cars) and having both boost and nitrous is taking me into new levels of "WTF?".
That's because we deliver nitrous at MAX density unlike ALL other companies and because a stock turbo can only enhance top end power and has very little effect on low and mid range torque.

So be that as it may, if my issue DOES disappear, then I'll simply sell the amp box or save it for when I experience further problems.
If it's a good product that works, you'll have an application and/or a market for it before too long.

If it's a good product that works, you'll have an application and/or a market for it before too long.

I hope it works. I just got back from another test and it STILL breaks up on top albeit the limit moved up by another 500 rpm and ONLY if I hit it at 3k and with a 50% starting ramp up. Any trigger before then and the car gets weak and breaks up earlier. All I can say is that it DOES feel really good when it's not bitching and I KNOW that I'm leaving plenty on the table if I can only get this weak spark problem to go away.

BTW I bought some brass screws to see if I can help increase conductivity between the coils and the spark plug terminals. I feel like when you are left holding the bag with shit, YOU'RE LEFT HOLDING A BIG BAG OF SHIT.

The good thing about extensive struggling to succeed, is that you have a greater potential to learn more.

For sure.

Agreed although I'd go one further and say the ONLY plug leads worth buying are Magnecor, which is one US brand motor product that is the best in the world.

I doubt the Amp will fix the misfire.

1) How many sets of plugs have you used/tried while suffering this MISFIRE?

I've been through 3 sets of plugs. All gapped at 0.018" by this time.

2) Have you measured the resistance of each individual coil, if not please do so and report back to me?

The coil pack is somewhat unorthodox, but the secondary coils ALL have 12k ohms and the primary was about 5.5k ohms (if I recall, it's been a couple of days already).

3) Measure the resistance of the HT spring connection components

I performed a cheap mod to improve the contact points of the leads with brass that both improve the spring pressure of the leads as well as improve the overall contact areas of each end of each lead.

4) Have you checked all wires and connection relating to the ignition system - electrical components (including wire itself), do not last long when subjected to heat and a turbo pumps out more heat than NA motors - most ignition misfires are due to simple electrical failures, like broken wires.

The only electrical wiring is from the engine harness and it checks out fine.




I did find a boost leak and rectified it, which resulted in better power but it still chokes off and misfires @ 5- 5.5k rpm. The engine itself is fine with EXCELLENT compression values within 5% of the min/max.

The restriction is nasty but I doubt that's the cause of the misfire.

I'm only looking at ALL aspects of this issue.

I've never heard of a primary coil firing secondary coils, so I've no idea how to check such an arrangement. I can't even imagine how that could work, as the primary coil would have to fire ALL 4 secondary coils at the same time and although I know that's possible, I'm surprised any OEM uses it.
I guess it must have a primary HT lead between the primary coil and the secondary coil pack, so have you measured the resistance of that???

Unless my memory has gone to hell, those values of 5.5K & 12K are EXTREMELY HIGH compared to the values I'm used to working with, so where are you measuring those?

There is only ONE primary circuit throughout the entire assembly (one 12v positive and 1 earth; there is also another wire called the low reference that is used as a "secondary" earth and also goes back to the computer module) and there are an additional 4 trigger wires that ground each coil's transistor to collapse the field and fire that particular coil.The secondary coils seem to be paralleled to each other. How they make it work in depth, I have NO CLUE and there is NO schematic of this coil in ANY service manual (it must be DELPHI's thing).

I just realized that my ohmmeter was NOT calibrated during my tests and I'm rusty on using it as I'm used to digital but that one is MIA. I recalibrated the analog unit and went to measure the primary (it's raining right now so I couldn't do the secondaries) and I got 8 ohms out of it on the primary. I'll get back to you on the secondary with the recal.

I'm going to try a NEW coil unit in the end because I found a healthy number of information regarding defective/prematurely failing coils on these engines. I will also make note of the resitance values of the new unit and compare them to the current one to see if it is really out of whack. There is NO info regarding resistance values for this coil.

No updates for the moment except that I did recieve the new, updated part for the ignition coil pack and the boost-a-spark. I compared the values between the new coil and the old one and there isn't much diffference at all in the resistance values. However, I did discover, after performing my own electrical detective work, that the coil 12v positive SHARES power with the fuel injectors. That's right, the fuel injectors are also tied into the coil pack's power, which means that they both are working hard at high rpm, high boost, and nitrous.
That is ridiculous

In the spirit of troubleshooting, I'll go for a test run with the new coil pack ONLY and see if it misfires or not. If not, I can try the boost a spark module.
The way to go!!!

If you haven't already done so (which you probably have), I'd also make sure that the Pulsoids don't get a feed from the same source.

No, they have their own dedicated power feed.