NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

I have a modified NOS 05177 kit that I have been running in my car. When I bought the kit, I didn't have the instructions, but I was able install it with no real problems. I also did a progressive controller, so the power addition could be seamless.

I was shooting for 100 rwhp, so I tried a .052 jet. I didn't meet my goal so I drilled the jet to a .054. I gained 100 early in the rpm range, but netted only 75 rwhp at peak. I settled with that as I didn't want to be greedy.

Fast forward a year later, and I now want more.....

I stepped up to a .062 jet and honestly picked up nothing at all.

The bottle pressure has been kept at 900-1000 and was freshly filled when on the dyno. Also the inline filter is clear and the solenoids are functioning.

I was thinking that maybe I had found the limit of the -3an lines used on some parts of this kit, but I have read that -3an is .138, more than double the size of my .062 jet.

Today I downloaded the instructions for the kit I have, and find it only comes with jets to 100hp (not wheel hp I'm sure). I think this kit may be limited to only flow 100 hp.

Here is a diagram of how my kit is installed:



I have the solenoids installed exactly as the diagram shows. I believe that dual solenoids are a good idea when running a progressive controller as if one fails and sticks open, it's very unlikely the other one will. I use it as a safety measure.

I am beginning to believe that the solenoids together may be the problem. I have understood the a 16020 solenoid will flow 150hp wide open. I also figure that would be enough for at least 135ish rwhp.

So, does anyone have any experience running dual solenoids like this? Does the two of them combined create a flow issue? Could it actually be the -3an line?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

formula for "more"


Current setup + 2% fuel - current solenoids + pulsoids = 10-20% improvement in efficiency.


in other words... change the solenoids and if thats not enough do a whole front end. and if thats not enough then come back for a pro setup.

"" I believe that dual solenoids are a good idea when running a progressive controller as if one fails and sticks open, it's very unlikely the other one will.""

That sounds good!!
But a second solenoid adds resistance.
The US solenoids do not tend to stick open. They wear on the seat and just let nitrous creep past when they are shut off. That can lead to a problem when you fire the engine up if you have left the bottle turned on.. Ask me how I know

And if you have two identical solenoids which pulse together, why would one fail before the other? I'm not taking the piss, I'm just saying what I think. If there is a known worry about these solenoids sticking open then why use them.

Now lets talk a bit of nitrous tech!

The idea is to deliver as much LIQUID nitrous as possible to the injector or spray plate yes??
Nitrous does not like sudden changes of direction as it makes the liquid change state. The change of state can be from liquid into a super saturated vapour if the turbulence is sufficient enough. This means you are not getting a full head of liquid to where you want it.

So if we reduce the changes in direction, we keep the nitrous in a denser liquid state for longer. In your solenoids the liquid enters the valve body and has to turn 90 degree's upwards towards the valve seat. When its passed through the valve seat it has to change direction by 90 degree's again to exit the valve.
So thats TWO changes of direction you have. Then you have a second solenoid doing the same thing, so thats 4 x 90 degree changes of direction before the nitrous get to the injector or plate.
With the WoN solenoids / pulsoids you only get 1 x 90 degree change in the nitrous flow. And you dont need a back up solenoid for safety
Is your controller capable of pulsing two solenoids ?
I guess that you are using a nitrous spray bar kit ? If so, then how many holes do you have in the bars? ie, is the plate able to flow enough nitrous and fuel ? A good indication of this will be the AFR readings from the dyno. What were they? Can you show us a picture of the dyno data please ?

What car / engine is this?
On my first ever nitrous motor I ran a 50 shot that gave me an extra 75hp (flywheel hp) on the dyno. But that was my first 3.5 litre engine. On my 5 litre engine I could not expect the same could I ?
And there are tranny losses to think about as well ?

My Tranny and rear end saps around 40hp easily on the dyno.

Give us some more information about the car / engine / engine build etc

Regards
Perry