NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

This is a thread I have already started on another board that I wanted to bring here. So excuse me that some of it is written oddly. I got tired of reading bad things about the WON products online so I figured I would create a thread for those who are also curious. The original thread is on a popular American car forums for the Pontiac GTO. Also known as the Holden Manaro CV8 for those of you else where in the world. Feel free to ask questions here and there and I will keep you all up to date too !
............................................FROM ORIGINAL THREAD....................................................................

NOTE: Please keep negative comments to yourself, I’m merely documenting first hand experience with a kit many may have never heard of. I know because I searched and searched and found nothing.

Ok, I’m not new to nitrous in the slightest and as far as my GTO is concerned after lots of careful planning and thinking. I have decided to spray the GTO and for good reason. For me and this is just me, I feel that given the work area, cost, and maintenance for me nitrous is the way to go. Not to mention, if I decide the GTO just isn’t going to do it for me anymore. I can simply remove the system, sell the car, and then transfer it to another platform much easier and simpler then any F.I. kit. Plus, I only have to worry about the extra power, wear, and tear when I’m spraying or about to spray for racing events, and etc.

After doing a bit more research in systems and components I found a company called WON or “Wizard of Nitrous”. They are out of the U.K. and the stuff looks pretty trick and honestly the only thing I didn’t like about it was, well, the price. Then I stumbled upon a used kit on eBay and contacted WON about it. They gave me the thumbs up and said they’d assist me along the way with whatever updates the older (compared to their new stuff) system might need.

The car:
05’ GTO M6

Mods:

K&N Intake
Kooks 1-7/8 LT’s
SLP LM-1 Cat back
Diablew Tune
Recently aquired used Wizard Of Nitrous Street Blaster 150 kit.

Parts I already had on Hand from my last Nitrous endeavors:

- NX Remote bottle opener - Can't use it on the WON bottle,but I can use it on my back up NX bottle. I may however end up selling it for cheap.
- ZEX Programable TPS switch - Still not sure if I want to use it or not since I have a smaller more practical similar switch.
- FP HOBB switch
- Spare 10lb NX bottle - I was thinking of running this in tandem and mount it as a back up if the bottle is empty. However,I'm not sure if I can just use it in the WON setup. More to come on this later of course.
- Dual Dash pod
- Misc Nitrous lines
- Nitrous combination wrench
- NOS Billet Bottle bracket
- Earls steal braided fuel line ( the recommended upgrade )
- NX fuel rail adapter for FP gauage and nitrous fuel feed
- Misc wires, relays,etc

So this is what showed up:

- WON Bottle
- WON Solenoids
- WON Single nozzle - I am currently working with Trev @ WON to get the DP upgrade.
- WON Maximizer Progressive controller
- NOS Bottle warmer
- Unkown Billet Bottle bracket
- Misc wires,cables,relays,etc

To Get List:

- DP upgrade parts
- Window switch ( If I need it,I don't remember if the progressive controller handles that job or not )
- Solenoid brackets ( I'll most likely make these )
- Nitrous tune ( I just have to give the tuner a heads up )
- Lower range plugs
- Nitrous in car gauge ( electronic )
- Oil Pressure gauge
- Smokers kit for the ash tray


Is old and I’m not sure what it came off of, but for what I paid and what I got…I can’t complain.

I’m sending the solenoids and purge off to get checked out and if need be upgraded. I’m also going with the direct port upgrade as well. I think I may even port my intake while it’s off too.

PICS:

UPDATE: 03APR13

I mailed off the solenoids today to WON in the UK and they should get them in about a week or two. Waiting on a call from Trev to discuss the DP parts kit and price. I'll keep you guys posted on my progress.

UPDATE: 16APR13

Still waiting on WON to receive my parts via mail,its been almost two weeks and still nothing. I hope it didn't get lost or stolen :: rolls eyes :: [COLOR="Red"]EDIT: Just got word Trev received them today a little after I made the last update,ironically enough. Should have more details for you guys later tonight/day.[/COLOR]

UPDATE: 19APR13

I spoke with Trevor over the phone last night, He called all the way from the U.K. to Italy at like 9pm (8pm my time..talk about dedicated). He made four suggestions of combinations for me to choose from, with two of which kept a budget in mind. I gave him my goals and expectations and we went from there. For now it is looking like a bare bones direct port system just to get me up and running and testing. Later this summer I'll upgrade to a self tuning software and go from there. I'm really excited and should have more pics for you guys in about two weeks. I'm going to start setting up for my electrical install as I wait for the solenoids and the rest of the kit to install.

UPDATE: 28 APR 13
Eventually I'll post more pics and get the ball rolling but it is all slow,slow at this point. I got the setup etched out and looks like a small change of plans. Going to run the single nozzle for now in an effort to get the kit on and working so I can get some dyno numbers soon. I would like to get some real world racing numbers versus spending the enitre summer building and elaborate kit. I may upgrade the solenoids to the 250's because it give me room to grow in the future. Also,I need to order a nitrous gauge for the bottle and for the dash as well. Other then new nilon lines and a some odd and end bolts/nuts. I should have the kit on and testing by mid may. It's going to take a while for shipping alone. I don't want to partially install a kit either. The suck thing is I need to address my diff too..FML.

UPDATE: 01MAY13

Ok,
So I spoke with Trev today and looks like I should have everything I need to be back up and running by the end of the week. I'm really excited because I did end upgrading to the 250 pulsoid which will give me a higher ceiling then the 150's. I should have everything in the mail by the end of the week. No to forget I have tires in the mail as well ( much needed ) to couple with the new added power.

UPDATE: 18 JUN 13

Got everything in the mail today,going to start install and document along the way,I will keep you guys posted.

[quote=johnwins;11167754]Sweet man, your going to get addicted to the extra power Do you have a wideband yet? When I used to spray my car, I kept the AFR around 11.7 as best I could.[/quote]

Yeah I know,I have ran spray before, but it was on a 4.6 Cobra that already had an hurt motor at the time. The thing is though, I didn't feel that the 4.6 was the absolute best base for a spray only car. So I ended up doing a blower install on it instead. Now that I have a 6.0 to work with,I think I will like spray much more in the long run. Ironically enough,I just installed dual Innovate LC-1 wide bands like two or thee weeks ago.


[SIZE="6"]UPDATE: 20 JUNE 13[/SIZE]

Ok, sorry for the late update but it's start to finish and I tried to cover just about everything in detail. I received the parts in the mail two or three days ago and worked steadily on the car from day one.

Here's what I got in the mail:



I upgraded to the 250 kit while the solenoids where out,so these are new or refurbished new. However,for the time being they well have 150 jets in them. As of right now I think its more of a 70-75 setup for testing purposes.The upgrade was cool because if you're on a budget like me, you can still get good quality parts AND they come warrantied ! Aside from that, I receieved the locking end for the nozzle that goes with a spacer ( not pictured ). I didn't have the spacer and I ended up making one that works fine. The new parts also came with new hoses and crush ends for them.


Here a few close ups of the spiffy new to me solenoids:



Fuel side



Nitrous side




Trusty old FPSS



How she started,stock,majestic,virgin-ish....kinda...



So then I started tearing into it slowly but surely and I kinda got stuff everywhere. It's a controlled science really.



At the same time I had to go back and forth from the inside to the outside running wires and hiding switches.

Ok,so at this point I didn't have the best brackets in the world. However,I did buy this kit used and what I had is what came in the kit. So what I did was mount them the best I could. I personally like the mid intake solenoid look,so I wasn't too upset on how it came out.

I will go back later though with a better bracket so they can sit more even. I know the hose length might effect performance a tiny bit. The thing is the nitrous travels faster then fuel and the nitrous just happens to be the longer hose. So the way I look at it it should be fine for now,and I can adjust the delay time to compensate for the hose length in the Maximizer if needed. Yes,I am aware of the wires exposed,I went back and cleaned those up at the end of the install.




Here's a close up of the jet,or at least the best one I could get with my camera. It's a screw in type jet that mounts inside the solenoid vs in the nozzle like most of us are used to. Its pretty neat to say the least and it sits inside a hosing that then threads back into the solenoid.




Here's the bottle mounted and was a bit of a pain to do. Unlike my Cobra I don't have the freedom to mount the bottle pretty much anywhere in the trunk. To make matters worst,the base of the mount had bolts with nuts vs. screws so I had to find big metal screws to mount the base. At any rate,it got done and the line is run so no biggy. Also, I am pretty sure it's not a WON bottle holder as I know it's not the one that comes in the original Street Blaster kit. But if someone knows who made this,feel free to let me know so at least I will know. I am pretty sure it was an expensive piece when it was new.




Here is pretty much the finished product and in all honesty it was no different then any other nitrous install. The only trick parts where the electronics side and I will cover that tomorrow.

The rest are my poor attempt at some nitrous engine bay porn:






More to come on the Maximizer progressive controller later when I get closer to spraying the car. I still have a few items left on the list of things to do.

LIST:

Fill bottle
Get colder range plugs ( this will come before the bottle filling )
Load nitrous tune in hand held ( which is on pause because I still need to get a new data cable on order )
Get tacky "bottle baby" sticker for rear window
Weekend E-thug non LS cars on how badass my car is because it now has a nitrous kit on it. Which if you didn't know by default makes it a 1000 hp car O.o

[COLOR="Red"]:: IMPORTANT FOR THOSE WHO PCS/MOVE OVER SEAS ::[/COLOR]

On a serious note though,if you find yourself moving or getting stationed in the EU anywhere. [COLOR="red"]Please note that they have EU specifications for all compressed tanks[/COLOR] ( like nitrous ones ). So you need to have a special EU stamp on your tank [COLOR="red"]OR THEY WILL NOT FILL IT ANYWHERE[/COLOR].

There are two things you can do:

- You can just buy another tank when you get here

- OR you can have a certified shop stateside EU certify your tank BEFORE you ship it.

I have a EU company nitrous kit BUT it's the American version so I have the DOT certification. I need to find a way to get it certified or simply buy another tank. We will see what happens in the coming weeks.

More to come later :mullet:

Thanks Spark !,

UPDATE: 27 JUN 13

Finally got my data cable fiasco settled with my hand held and loaded a rear O2 delete tune. I also have my "test shot" tune and my "party time" 150 shot tune on hot stand by as well. I just ordered my plugs too. They are NGK-BR7's PRT# 3346 and I am looking at gapping them at about .033 to start. I think I might get my bottle filled this weekend as well in preperation for the plugs once they arrive. I also recieved my nitrous gauge for the bottle too,so after its filled I will always have a clue of what's in it. These are the last two items I have on the list before testing and tuning can happen.

As a percaution I have a diff bushing on the way to help "stiffin" the rear diff. I don't expect it to do wonders and I have plans for a 8.8 or a 9" IRS upgrade sometime next year. Also in the works in some sort of plan for the transmission. I am aware that once I get the bite from the "power bug" that it's all down hill from there. Below is a quick summary of what I have done so far and what I have left.

Done:

- Kit installed and is electronically and mechanically operational
- Nitrous 60 shot "test" and 150 shot "Party" tune is on hand
- Dual Innovate LC-1 wide bands are installed
- New bottle pressure gauge soon to be installed ( like as soon as I get home )
- Diff bushing ( insert upgrade to give me a warm and fuzzy ) and "new to me" clutch on the way. It's used but its only as a back up for when the factory one fails. Once, I change it I can start plan for a transmission overhaul and twin plate or single disk upgrade along with a drive shaft.

Left:

- Await arrival for colder range plugs
- Fill nitrous bottle
- Install tune
- Do a base line N/A dyno pull and one on the bottle with the WON kit. I may do the base line on the N/A tune and then another N/A base line with the nitrous tune for accuracy. I beleive this should add some consistancy to the nitrous numbers.

If all goes well I should have these numbers for you guys by the end of July. I am sorry it's taking so long,but remember I am in Italy and 90% of what I need I have to order and that is usually a two week wait automatically.

[quote=sparkchaser86;11317170]I'm stoked for you. I'm deployed right now so I have to love through you guys til I get back. I hope you video the dyno. I'd love to see it in action.[/quote]
Stayed tuned ! If you're bored you can check out my other thread as well : GTO EUROPE ADVENTURES


UPDATE: 02 JUL 13

I think this is by far the fastest I have ever seen anything ship from Autozone to an FPO address ( about three days,lol ). So you can guess what I got in the mail today :-)

http://imageshack.com/i/f3jxarj

( it wont imbed for some reason)

Yep,so I may or may not get the bottle filled this weekend and begin testing. As always stay posted !

[quote=CanadianGoat;11451154]You mentioned you want to do a larger two stage direct port, I would not run the fuel off the rail. Get a dedicated fuel cell for it. I built my car for juice but looking to spray around 300-400 at the track and the amount it would cost to buy everything and then a full season I think I could get the same out of a procharger so I'm stuck on the fence. I did think about cutting the spare tire well out and cut the sides off then use the bottom portion to raise it up and have the the entire trunk flat so you have more mounting space. Can use the metal you cut off the sides of the spare tire well to fill in when welding in the bottom portion of the spare tire well.[/quote]

True and a dedicated fuel cell is in the future plans or if I come across a good deal. For right now I am only running the bare bones 150 kit just to give a solid review. The WON company owner Trevor makes some very appealing claims on his stuff. So I would like to see this for myself in real life and share what I find with other enthusiast. This is more for those who have never heard of or seen a WON kit in action ( like myself ).

Then once I do all the testing and give my initial impressions, I will document the progression of the GTO with the WON system. I personally don't feel the GTO is worth ProCharger or Turbocharging, mostly because I don't get that FEELING from the car. It strikes me more of a O.G. muscle cruiser. So for this cars case I plan to build a larger engine within the year with a solid transmission behind it and spray it with a healthy shot of dope.

[SIZE="6"]UPDATE: 10 JUL 13[/SIZE]

I received the WON 150 shot pills in the mail yesterday and I'm excited. I MAY or MAY NOT start testing and tuning before I leave for my trip. The thing is I have a 3308mile trip schedualed seeing about 5 countries and 7 cities in Northern Europe in August. So I don't want to risk breaking anything or weakening anything before the trip. So to be on the safe side I may just wait until I get back. This way I don't jeprodise the trip my girlfriend and I are planning.

[SIZE="5"] UPDATE: 09 SEP 13[/SIZE]


So I have a few things to report and it’s looking really good too! The DW65 upgrade pump I ordered from Kollar Racing here on the site has shipped and should be here this Friday at the earliest. I don’t want spray on the 150 shot until it shows up for safety concerns and I can’t afford to “chance” it.

I have also sourced a pre-made stand alone fuel system that is ready to bolt in for a killer deal. I will let you guys know how that deal goes and if anything should be on its way this month. I talked with a friend of mine locally who knows of a race shop here in Naples that can fill both my bottles for 30 euro each (about $45 bucks) and does Dyno runs for 50 Euro (about $65ish bucks).

I’m super excited and can’t wait to get some numbers for those of you following the thread. As soon as I get the bottles filled I will start checking and testing the kit as a whole. I expect any issues but I will document anything unique I find along the way. The pills I have in the car now are equivalent to a 70ish shot.

I hope to have Dyno numbers by the end of the month.

UPDATE: 10 SEP 13

Got the dyno scheduled for next Monday,but they wont be able to fill the bottles until the same day. So I will have to fill them and then reschedule once I have checked the car out. Either way,it's looking good !

Edit: Just got word on what dyno the shop has and it's a Dynojet 2x4 (224 xlc). So with that I can expect the numbers to be a little higher then normal,but this dynojet does has a Eddycurrent attached to it to simulate load. I will go check out the shop this week(end-ish) and drop off the bottles to be filled.

I dropped off the bottles today at the shop I will be doing the dyno session at. It's a legit shop and very clean to say the least ! I will be doing a full write-up of them in my "GTO Europe Adventures" thread in the media section. Anywho,they said the bottles should be ready to pick up on Monday. So I expect to dyno tune the car the following week assuming I have no issues during testing and fine tuning.

Edit: Pics from my buddies cell phone:

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[quote=Alibaba;12292802]Looking forward to seeing how the maximiser works out and the ease of use. Where are you going to mount it?[/quote]
Thanks Alibaba,
The Maximiser I have is a older version but it's really cool and does quite a lot as well. It's as easy as any handheld tuner I've ever had and I have it mounted in the glove box. You can have multiple different setups saved in it ( three or four ) that allows you to make changes on the fly when changing out jets for different styles of racing. Right now I have the 70setup combo,it's more to see how different functions work together. Then I'll go back into it and make another set of changes for the "Party Time" 150 race setup.

[COLOR="Red"]UPDATE: 14 SEP 13[/COLOR]

I received my DW65C pump in the mail yesterday morning and I got word that both of my bottles are filled and waiting for me to pick them up on Monday ! So next week will be very busy between work and trying to finish up some testing before the dyno. I will snap shots and short video for you guys of the maximiser and some test hits.

Badnews,
I got word today that the shop is having issues with their nitrous supplier. I wasn't told what or why they where in detail,but I was told it wouldn't be until FRIDAY now that I get my bottles back. Not that big of deal since I need to update the firmware in my widebands anyway to make sure I can keep my engine safe with accurate info.

On another note,
Shortly after testing the 70 and 150 shot then getting numbers for you guys. I will be actively working on getting better tuning software for my GTO. I keep hearing good things about HP tuners Pro so it seems like that is the route I will take.

I still have minor things I can/should do to the car prior to spraying anyway so all in all not that big a deal. I will keep you guys updated with anything new as it happens.

Good news !!

Well according to the tracking number my new widebands sensors have arrived and just in time. One started reading funny and the other just gives me a code after doing WOT pulls. So after doing some research I bought two new sensors for each side. I also downloaded the recomended software fixes for the LC-1 wideband.

[COLOR="Red"]LC-1 firmware cliffnote:[/COLOR] Basically, if you have a older generation LC-1 running the 1.10 software. You need to downgrade it to the 1.00 then re-update it to 1.20a. This makes the read out smoother and a little slower, but more accurate.

[COLOR="red"]Comments: [/COLOR]So far, for me mine has done just that and the right side no longer gives me odd ball readings. The left one still gives me code "8" which says "replace sensor/recallibrate sensor". I have down both,now I just need to replace the sensor and then recalibrate. I should be 100% good to go after that.

I have been given the green light that my bottle ARE ready to be picked up and I can get them tomorrow. It will be 48 EURO for both filled 10lb bottles ( about 5 liters ). That comes out to $65.00 U.S. which is freaking AMAZING !!!

I still need to wire up my purge solenoid and I will do that tomorrow or saturday. I've been dragging my ass on it but I am going to get on the ball this weekend. My friend told me about a drag racing event near Rome in a place called Avezzano. The track is a freight cargo air strip and no word on admissions or price. I think this will be a good place to test,tune,and give you solid feed back on the system from a racing standpoint.

The clutch I have holds strong and I have decent tires,so I think it should perform "ok". I don't expect blazzing times and more just good feedback on how the kit hits/feels.

Many thanks for replicating your build thread here Cardea and for your exceptional and ongoing support.

I look forward to reading your further experiences in the near future.

No problem Trev,
The way I look at it "You'll never know until you try." so instead of guessing why not give it a shot and documet my experience along the way.
...............................................................................................................................................................
[SIZE="5"]THE MOMENT YOU'VE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR....[/SIZE]

UPDATE: 21 SEP 13 (Get some coffee this is going to be a long one)

Friday afternoon, I picked up the bottles and one told that one of them would not fill. Talking to the shop owner he said that his supplier commented that when he went to fill the WON bottle the relief safety valve would lift. This is interesting because the WON bottle valve is adjustable and I did buy it used. However, a lifting relief valve just means that it is simply working. So I’m not sure if it needs to be tested and readjusted OR if the supplier is overfilling bottles. (SIDE NOTE: more to come on this later) Neither of which I can verify because I don’t know the supplier and his experience with filling nitrous bottles for automotive applications, nor do I have hydrostatic test stand to test the bottles relief valve. If anything, I will contact Trevor and see what he says. I’d like to imagine I can simply remove the relief valve and ship it to him to have it tested.
On the flip side, it isn’t “that” big of a deal because the won system can be used with any style nitrous bottle regulator as long as the line fits. I am kind of bummed though because I know I went through a bit of nitrous simply testing the kit in and of itself.
Moving along, this morning I got up a man on a mission to complete the first stage of the review. I started by installing the DW65C fuel pump because it’s the most time consuming. Well, that and I have to rip apart the trunk to get to it. So I took some pictures and did a mini write of that seen below.


DW65C FUEL PUMP INSTALL:
It’s pretty straight forward just remember to disconnect the fuel line and vapor hose. I didn’t and broke the damn fuel line and had to make a new one (no big deal).
- Remove the trunk interior carpet and floor.
- Unbolt the metal frame that protects the tank
- Disconnect fuel /vapor line
- Unbolt filler neck in gas cap
- Unplug fuel pump wiring bottom right hand corner of tank (you can’t miss it)
- Unbolt the top of the metal straps that secure the tank to the floor. Pay attention because the opposite side of the straps have hooks that catch the tank. This is interesting because when you lift on them to pull the tank out,if you don't pay attention they can "rehook" the tank and stop you. It's a bit tricky,but not that back once you get the hang out it.
- Special note: At this point you’ll be pretty much ready to remove the tank. However, you’ll need to do something about the straps. At the time I didn’t have a book or internet to look this up so here is what I did. I simply cut them on the back side near to bottom so they would easily slide flat. This allowed me to remove the tank from the car without being hung up on the strap ends.
- Remove the tank gently and place on the ground/table. To help with this I used two small screwdriver to stick in the holes on the end. This helped me get a even grasp on the tank for removal. ( your choice )
- Remove the plastic strap and tank cover (You’ll also need to cut the band strap around the bottom of the filler neck)
- Remove tank from plastic cover (be careful of vent tube)
- Unplug the electronics and vent tube from the fuel pump assembly hat
- Loosing ring of fuel pump assembly/remove assembly (gently)
- Unplug the two black tubes attached to the assembly. (You’ll need small-ish hands and try to do this before complete assembly removal or you could break something.)
- Slowly disassemble the fuel pump assembly with various clips and pieces until you get to just the pump.
- Remove the pump and be mindful of the locking pins that hold it into place. Use two small flat tip screw drivers and it should come off with a slight tug of the fuel pump.
- Inside there will be a spacer adapter and O-ring. I used the new O-ring from the pump kit and re-used the spacer.
- Install new pump and reassemble as you disassembled. ( At this point I decided to drll four tiny holes ( about the size of a carton straw ) in the basket to fight the issue of the basket running dry. )
- Then pump it all back together and test it.
- Done

PICS BELOW:

Just a few pics to get you started on the pump install,the rest I will make a legit "How-To" thread for.

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After that fiasco I got back to the kit and installed the other bottle I had on hand that filled. It was old NX bottle with a high flow valve so plenty good for what I need. Installed the bottle and tested for leaks, found one and fixed it. Turns out the split for the nitrous purge/nitrous solenoid was leaking at the main line. It doesn’t surprise me because it didn’t look right to begin with. So I will be order the correct two-way split and then re-installing the purge at a later date. Installed the test tune and nitrous plugs, gapped them to .033. Added some octane additive to the tank for a warm and fuzzy and then set off.

Initial impressions, at first I felt like there wasn’t much of a difference between on and off the bottle. Turns out it wasn’t because one of the lines came loose (nitrous line). No big, reattached it and made sure the brass coupling inside crimped properly. Then I checked the fuel line and all was good after the proceeding test hit.

70ish shot:

The Maximiser is setup to give the initial hit of 30% and ramp up to 100% of the shot within 1.5 seconds. Needless to say was not expecting stellar results with the kit setup in such a slow manner. I did this mostly to get a feel for the kit and its functions while playing with them. After a few hits on the 70ish shot I was pretty happy and impressed with how it performed. Even in 70ish shot form it was extremely smooth and didn’t feel like a “hit” and more of a twin screw blower car rolling into the power band. It’s hard to explain, but you’d need to feel it to understand. AFR’s were steady at 11:3, granted I know I could go a bit leaner, but then again this is just testing.






150 shot:

“OH MY GOD”, is pretty much the best way I can describe it. I thought the smaller shot was good, but it didn’t have the same effect. Obviously the smaller shot wouldn’t be as “exciting” but it’s the power delivery that threw me off guard. AFR’s stayed at 11:3 still and no issues for the most part still. Pulls like a freight train up top and the ramping of the Maximiser really helps. I guess you could say it’s “No different than any other progressive controller.” I guess to degree this could be true, but I can’t comment on that because I don't have another one on hand to compare it to.

I did a dig test with both the 70 and 150 shot. The current setup really helps with the loading of the rear suspension and drive-train. The best way I could describe it would be like slow motion jumping with the muscles loose then tensing. So far I like it, but the real test will come when I dyno test it ! I may do it this week or next and that will be it for a while. In the mean time I will continue to fine tune the setup and go from there.

The Maximiser:

This bad boy has a lot of features and some of which are locked because I don’t have the code for the “race” mode. This mode allows me to fine tune the system so rich fuel conditions and program is to “auto adjust” or self-regulate during a pass for declining nitrous pressure. This is nice because it basically ensures you use ALL XX pounds in the bottle, assuming it is filled correctly. I have screen shots of the Maximiser but none of the photos came out very good. So I will take more pics later and post them for you guys and a video too so you can see the sequence of events from start to finish.

Initial Impressions:

So far so good, I still have work to do to get optimum efficiency out of my setup. I really like the Maximize as it’s a considerable step up from most progressive units. Nitrous hits are nice and smooth and power comes on HARD like a twin screw blower car. I’d also like to note that I think the bottle was filled with air or had some air in it. After testing and lots of passes I went to do a morning hit this morning and got nothing but air . Even with a “low” bottle there should have been “some” residual sign of nitrous, but I got nothing but air. More to come on this later when I come back with a 100% (or hell who knows at this point) full bottle and good pressure.

Keep posted !

Pics:
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[quote="blackbob"]70ish shot:
Glad to hear you made it to your first test session.

The Maximiser is setup to give the initial hit of 30% and ramp up to 100% of the shot within 1.5 seconds.
On a 70 hit you could easily manage a start setting of 50% with a 1 sec build and it would have felt much better.

Needless to say was not expecting stellar results with the kit setup in such a slow manner. I did this mostly to get a feel for the kit and its functions while playing with them.
Wise move.

After a few hits on the 70ish shot I was pretty happy and impressed with how it performed. Even in 70ish shot form it was extremely smooth and didn’t feel like a “hit” and more of a twin screw blower car rolling into the power band. It’s hard to explain, but you’d need to feel it to understand. AFR’s were steady at 11:3, granted I know I could go a bit leaner, but then again this is just testing.
If you were pleased with it at 11:1 you've be VERY pleased at the 13:1 that it could handle.

150 shot:

“OH MY GOD”, is pretty much the best way I can describe it.
That's what I like to hear.

I thought the smaller shot was good, but it didn’t have the same effect. Obviously the smaller shot wouldn’t be as “exciting” but it’s the power delivery that threw me off guard. AFR’s stayed at 11:3 still and no issues for the most part still.
11:1 is far too rich, especially on a modest power level and will kill off approx. 30% or more of your potential power, so you were probably only feeling 100 HP or less.

Pulls like a freight train up top and the ramping of the Maximiser really helps. I guess you could say it’s “No different than any other progressive controller.” I guess to degree this could be true, but I can’t comment on that because I don't have another one on hand to compare it to.
I remember the first time I demonstrated a progressive system to a magazine journalist, his EXACT words were;
OH SHIT.... OHH SSSSHIT.... OHHH SSSSSSHIT.... OHHHH SSSSSSSSSHHHHHHIIIIIIIITTTTTTTT

I did a dig test with both the 70 and 150 shot. The current setup really helps with the loading of the rear suspension and drive-train. The best way I could describe it would be like slow motion jumping with the muscles loose then tensing. So far I like it, but the real test will come when I dyno test it ! I may do it this week or next and that will be it for a while. In the mean time I will continue to fine tune the setup and go from there.
I'll be looking forward to your results BUT MAKE SURE the guy KNOWS what he's doing when testing nitrous on a dyno (which I doubt will be the case) and basically MAKE SURE he does NOT operated the nitrous until AFTER the engine has STARTED TO ACCELERATE.

The Maximiser:

This bad boy has a lot of features and some of which are locked because I don’t have the code for the “race” mode. This mode allows me to fine tune the system so rich fuel conditions and program is to “auto adjust” or self-regulate during a pass for declining nitrous pressure.
I think you've misunderstood that feature, because unless my memory is shot, I only introduced that feature in to the Max Extreme.
It's also ONLY wise to use the Max mixture adjustment feature to FINE TUNE the system, AFTER making any major changes with the jets.

This is nice because it basically ensures you use ALL XX pounds in the bottle, assuming it is filled correctly.
Again I guess this is another misunderstanding, as ONLY a REVO and Max Extreme has the ability to achieve as close to that as possible. Anything else will always leave a bottle of GASEOUS nitrous that can't be used to create useful power.

Initial Impressions:

So far so good, I still have work to do to get optimum efficiency out of my setup.
You SURE do.

I really like the Maximize as it’s a considerable step up from most progressive units. Nitrous hits are nice and smooth and power comes on HARD like a twin screw blower car.
It's a shame you can't compare this to a US brand kit, as I've no doubt you'd be even more impressed.

I’d also like to note that I think the bottle was filled with air or had some air in it. After testing and lots of passes I went to do a morning hit this morning and got nothing but air . Even with a “low” bottle there should have been “some” residual sign of nitrous, but I got nothing but air. More to come on this later when I come back with a 100% (or hell who knows at this point) full bottle and good pressure.
I'm 99% certain that will NOT be the case with regards to what the bottle was filled with, as you would NOT have been this impressed if you hadn't had a good fill or at least a high percentage of liquid.
Furthermore, what you believe to be 'air' is actually GASEOUS nitrous oxide and that is just 1/3 rd of the density of LIQUID nitrous and therefore makes NO power when the fuel delivery remains set for LIQUID nitrous.

The way to ENSURE you get a good fill, is to buy some FISHING scales with a suitable range and weigh the bottle BEFORE you have it filled (making sure it's emptied JUST before you hand it to the filler) and again afterwards.

Keep posted !
We look forward to future reports.

Thanks !

Bottle Fiasco:

So I got an repsonse from Trevor L. explaining to me about the SPRV. He says the one I have is very well a older generation one with some age on it. So it most likely just need a little adjustment and gave me to step to do so:

[quote=Trevor Langfield]I suggest you do the following;
1) Using either nitrogen or GASEOUS nitrous, pressurise the bottle to at least 950 psi
2) If the SPRV starts to leak, turn the adjusting screw clockwise a few degrees until it stops leaking
3) If it doesn't stop leaking within 1/2 to one turn the SPRV needs replacing
[/quote]

So I will give it a shot and hopefully it fixes my issue,if not he will provide me with a new SPRV at a dicounted price. Then I'd just get it re-hydotrested and all will be good :turbonaug. In the mean time I will add a gauge to the NX bottle and use that until I get my WON bottle sorted out.

Update: 01 OCT 13

I dropped off both bottles again along with the instructions that Trevor L. sent me for bottle filler. Hopefully the adjustments he suggested is all it takes to reset the SPRV.

The bottles should be ready for pick-up next week. I will see about getting it dyno'd the following week.

Stay posted.