okay first off, noswizard the spark strength hasn't been tested
In that case I STRONGLY advise you to do so. but all plugs record good colouring, ecu does not detect misfire nor does the lambda sensor detect any unburnt fuel or a excessively rich/lean mixture on nitrous.
That's of no consequence as INADEQUATE spark strength does NOT show up as misfires or incorrect Lambda readings. What it does show up as is RELATIVELY INEFFECTUAL RESULTS!!!!
What happens is the spark doesn't have enough energy to jump at the desired time (due to elevated pre combustion pressures due to the added nitrous) and as a consequence the spark is delayed until the cylinder pressure drops to a level it can jump at. The result is an overly retarded ignition which produces LESS POWER than would have been the case, if the spark had jumped at the intended time. The ignition system is a direct coil type, that being the type with pencil cos over each plug, wasted spark setup as standard with standard plugs ( although they seethe same plugs as used in the turbo megane so should be more than cool enough ).
Direct coils are far more prone to failure than older types of ignition coils, because they are subjected to much more heat and we FREQUENTLY find them to be the cause of inadequate results on nitrous.The car runs fine off nitrous, keeping on par with other similar powered vehicles. And yes it does have 6 gears for those enquiring.
Again another indication that the cause is INADEQUATE spark strength (and its the cause of a common misconception that it indicates it won't be the cause of the problem you're experiencing), because it's ONLY INADEQUATE when the nitrous is added, causing the cylinder pressure to rise to a high enough level, to exceed what is normally required and the system is capable of delivering under normal conditions. When NOT adding nitrous, the spark energy required to jump the plug gap is much less and as a consequence the car runs fine without nitrous.I will move the bottle to the 5 o'clock position for safe measures. Regarding the line I replaced the braided line with the nylon line myself so know it isn't kinked, I will however check in the alkward places like the pedal area where it passes behind them securely.
The bottles NOT going to be a problem - the pipe MAY be if kinked or overly tightened but it's unlikely.Thanks.
Edit: on a side note how do you go about testing the spark strength on a modern ecu controlled car.
With this and a copy of my book would help with this and any other issues if you have thoughts of ramping up the power; http://www.noswizard.com/product_desc.php?id=104http://www.noswizard.com/product_desc.php?id=97And regarding an earlier question, my car has a small primary cat at the end of the manifold where as the other car doesn't. This is a 300 cell type I believe, approx 1/3rd the size of a normal cat.
Is there much gain to be had from a straight through exhaust with nos?
I must have missed the original mention of that - IF that is in anyway restrictive to flow (as most are), that could also be the cause of the lower performance on nitrous, as you generate MUCH MORE exhaust when using nitrous and ANY restriction in exhaust flow will CHOKE the engine and limit the performance.
Increasing the exhaust flow on ANY vehicle will result in improved results.
We're offering the following product (and will be making own own better alternative ASAP) specifically for that purpose, so that you can be legal when off nitrous and maximise the results when on nitrous. Such a device can be worth up to a second or more on the 1/4 mile, depending on how bad the exhaust is originally restricted.
http://www.pdfdownload.org/pdf2html/vie ... alogue.pdf
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