NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

IM AWAKKE AND IV AHVE PHONE I NEED INPUT LOL

OKI CORRECTION PLUG NOW IN WALL SOCKET LOL

SOZ i keep getting told of for not answering me phone , not i ignor it it just i dont plug it in as when i do it rings FFS , but now i need it to ring as im stuck on blue and yellow wire

Forget the yellow for now, I'll sort that for you later.

Connect the blue to one of the matching contacts on the solenoid and apply a power to the other terminal and you should hear the solenoid operate biefly when you dab the pink wires together.

Tezz!
When wiring stuff up make sure the colours match.
Its Red to Red, Black to Black, and Blue to bits if you get it wrong

what you doing? Wiring up some more secret stuff???

cool so pinks are switch bule to solonid yellow we cover later would be simple if soloind not have 3 spade connecters

now my loom was cut so i have 1 end to coils and one end from ecu or puls my old shifhter linked theses 2 if blue gose to solonid then i need wire to go from box to coils and soloined to feed to coils i think lol

solonid
oki so flat one to earth blue to one side , other to a live feed dap pinks and it works cool

got that i think

but 1 wire left and 2 ends one from coils one from ecu

Just to make sure we're clear on the solenoid terminals;

1) IGNORE the odd one of the 3 that is marked as being earth/ground - you do not connect anything to that.

2) You are left with 2 identical terminals

3) The blue wire can be connected to either one

4) A switched power supply should then be connected to the 2nd of the 2 identical terminals.

5) Dab the 2 pink wires together and bingo the solenoid should briefly energise.

oki that works :-)

Yeeehah

I'll get the kill diodes sent out to you ASAP, then you can complete the wiring.

Told ya Tezz, no worries

out testing tomorrow

cool theres more bits

Old box worked on interupting supply to coils will new be same or do i need to put this bit of loom back together and then interupt the signal from ECU

anyone know where i can get a handle bar mounted push button switch , as i think will be less wires than a filp over and using starter i soooooooooo hate electrics

Must say when ya get it all inplace not that complicated well not now iv been told how it all fits , but i recon the inside of that blue box is , lucky for me when i added the extra fuse box supplied by a realy for nitrous and pump i added in a few spare posative feeds made whole job lot easier



i wish need to fill all me gas bottles 15lbs of them , oil , filter . new plugs , fill drained petrol tank , reftit zorst , change fluild in breaks and clutch ect MOT ,Tax , insuer it then get to play

The blue box puts out a ground down the yellow wire when you shift, which can be used in one of 2 ways;

Option 1 (the way we normally do it);
Connect the yellow wire to the negative (trigger) wire of the coil. This prevents the coil seing the pulses negative signals from the ECU which stop the coil sparking.
In the event of having 2 coils, we have to supply an additional wire that is split in to 2 with a diode in each leg, so that the yellow wire can be connected to both coils, WITHOUT effectively making them work as 1 coil, as they would otherwise do.

Option 2 (used when option 1 doesn't work or if option 1 not suitable);
Connect the yellow wire to the coil of a relay, connect the 2 ends of the wires your previous kill connected to, to the switch contacts of the relay and then connect a power to the last relay contact.
This would have to be a NORMALLY CLOSED relay, so that when the shift box put out the ground/negative signal, the relay cut the supply to the coils.

I can fix you up with what you need to do either option.

It's a cruel world the sun's out today too

oki so not way i do it now ,Yes i do have 2 coils but thats easy to fix ill just conect power back upto coils as was and when ya send me a splter ect i connect this to the wires from the ecu to coils do ya just fit it buy striping back a bit insulation on each wire twisting it around the coil wires and soldering in place

as i dont use shifter all time do you think i should add in an on/of switch to the ingniton fed live feeds to solonid and box or is it cool for it to be powered all time was wondering it it would extend life of parts , mini max is only ever on with pump anyway

just need to find an handle bar mounted switch , sure ive seen them somewhere on web unless ya do them

PS ya never answered me question about me inverted bottle with no dip tube im assuming as im using Gas nitrous at only 120 psi soz gasseous ya know what i mean this will be cool

and apart from above just 3 key bits im missing

Tezz

yes dont like not having bike ready to play when weather changes , but willing to wait this time if it means no more changes for rest of season , My bikes kind of like theropy to me either have to be working on it or playing on it limbo dose me feking head in lol

Funny i take it to MOT bloke and he says , whos daddies baby then and he so wants to road test feker , tells me to wait in cafe i tell him bollox lol

Oh and to all you won users that not used ya system over winter give it a flush thro once over ect , check as ya would if it a new install , normal practices for us bike lads as we know and are use to what stale fuel and drying orings can do

Cool think i understand all wiring now Trev , and yes will add arming switch ect

as for switch unless i see it i dont know if oki

bits left , a gauge low psi read out , sprv block so i can fit gauge on bottle side , a spring for sprv or exact limits of the spring i have now lol could i just snip a few coils of the spring i have now

oki the bottle question LOL as above as we discussed i will be using one of me 20oz bottles for the shifter not linked to the othere ones , as its fitted to my bike its inverted and no diptube as it used to be for nitrous to pulsiods , if at 120psi it all gass not a prob i think that what we sorted

oki and for any one reading this and thinking why the **** , ya have to rember i ride my bike to track so onboard compresser was out foot pump ect , with this system i can top up me air /nitrous shifter from me other bottles using very little nitrous as and when i need , the gauge will tell me when to stop and the re-springed sptv will be my back up

takes a bit more input from me , yet + side is it all on board and im not using cold nitrous on ram

in effect i will be using nitrous to power ram but a low psi gaseous state so it an air shifter

lol cold nitrous FFS some times i amaze my self the stupid things i type

I understood what you meant

lol i had to google what a diode was got it now

so dont want to fek bout with connections at coils as they dyna coils and i dont want to break them

so i found the 2 wires in me loom that go from ECU to coils about 10inches back will this be oki to connect there

and just so im 100% clear i dont cut the ecu/coil wires i just remove some of the insulation to show bare wire then warp the new wires around that and solder
Pics are so much easier than words

PS TREV i need a fitting to go from 4mm pipe to the new 5mm fitting on me bottle , ok better idea ill email bits im missing

god knows whats going to happen when i have to replace me ECU and buy an timing light but M8 sent me a coloured wiring diagram that helps , what dont is why the **** at each end they dont keep colours all the same