NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

Some new pics of the setup getting close to completion now I think needs some tweaking

Max extreme fully completed with case and loomed up



Pulsoids mounted upside down now



Activation button next to fag lighter



New pressure gauge and updated 5mm nylon lines



Now the new bit water/meth injection linked into the max controller to flow the mix in at a progressive rate to the fuel pulsoid



The on demand pump to feed the water/meth pulsoid picking the mix from the wind screen washer bottle



Hope you all like it and all comments welcome sorry for the photo quality

Very clean looking set-up. How much is the water/meth helping? Also how do you know when your injecting enough water/meth?

I'm sure you could shorten the pipes to the injector now by a few inches.

the water seems to help alot i tried using octane booster but as soon as it came on gas i could feel the power dropping off in stages as the computer messes with the timing but now it doesnt do it hardly at all if at all its doesnt do it in first and second gear and does it once in third

after reading about the internet it 20% water/meth to fuel seemed a good starting point so its a little trial and error realy till i get a nice balance

i will be trev i just need to order a pack of olives so i can trim them down and refit the pipe nuts again else if i cut them off i will be nitrous less and that would never do lol

do you still want some decent pics of the car/setup like you said when i met you as these are only camera phone pics

I'm running a 3:1 ratio I have a 50 fuel and a 150 nitrous and yeah fuel pressure is supposed to be 50psi the only other jet I have is a 40 but didn't want to drop down two steps
Do you think it would be safe to change the fuel to 40 with the meth or should I order a 45 from your site

The ecu is the self monitoring type as it adapts to the fuel used with the knock sensors

I assume the shortening of the pipes is purely for quicker activation and not more power

Okay I will take some proper ones with my camera and get them off to you

BTW you can set the Max Extreme Nitrous ONLY delay to ensure the fuel reaches the engine at the same time as the nitrous, I'd set it to about 200 ms and then do a static test with the power set at a constant 20%.

I will chuck the 40 jet in and see what happens I assume I should just check the plugs again after a blast like normal

I'm pretty sure it's around 50 because a lad on one of the forums was having problems with injectors on the same engine as mine in the same car and his gauge was showing 50psi

I see I will see if I have any olives at work and try it later along with the 40 jet Like you say might aswell aim for optimum results might aswell do it properly

I will take some of the car if the weather is decent later

I have the nitrous delay set to around 300 millisecond as when I was testing I tried to get the fuel and nitrous to hit the nozzle at the same time

I will leave that for a bit then and the static test was done with the 20 fuel 50 nitrous the redline is about 6250rpm and it reved to 5250rpm so went out on the test run and the plugs didn't really change so kept the same ratio 40/100 seemed okay I think then went to 60/150 then had this hesitation so tried 50/150 incase it was running over rich and it seemed better
I have just had one thought though remember the dead seal in the fuel pulsoid I wonder if that could have effected the static test

I do try to think logically but still a newbie lol

Ah....a 2002 330Ci.

Very curious why you want to spray meth/water, is this car boosted?

Edit: This car runs a FPR @ 50 psi.

Yes mate The reason I wanted water was because the car felt like it was knocking so wanted it to suppress the knock and the car is not boosted

I have read many of your threads on fanatics mate and that's the reason I wanted nitrous

You need to ask why your car is knocking....there is something really off and you are applying a band-aid with meth/water injection to hide it. The problem is still there.

One thing that I've found very sensitive with this engine is the air flow through the MAF. I see from the photos that you have made some kind of cold air intake, and this may be the cause of your problem. You see, changing how the air flows over the sensor will affect how the car is being fueled. I would try re-installing the OEM airbox to see if the problem goes away.

I've never had knocking problems on any of my 330 cars, and we're stuck with 91 octane where I live.

You're in the right place for nitrous!

Yeah I have a cold air intake in the front bumper the pipe is pretty straight so wouldn't have thought it would disrupt the air flow but I'm open to all ideas so will have a blast at sticking the airbox back in

Did you find a way to retard the ignition timing on your m54 engine without full stand alone management

I'm trying to get some software that will read the ignition timing and knock sensors to even see if it is knock or something totally un related as I can't hear the metallic engine knock bu can't really think of much else that would cause it I don't suppose you know if inpa or any others software will show it

I very much doubt it's detonation and I doubt you'll end up needing the water/meth injection, it's just a matter of figuring out exactly what is happening and I suspects is most likely a fuel issue.

When you say fuel issue do you mean lack of fuel or jet settings would you like me to do an accurate flow test With the car moving to check there is adequate extra fuel or are you thinking it could still be rich

Could a bad spark cause this I have just fitted brand new plugs but the coils are original BMW ones

Also I have the mixture adjustment option on the max extreme so could tweak that for fine tuning with plug reading inbetween adjustments

Sorry if I'm talking rubbish but the more info I can give hopefully the easier it will be to fix

Can do a fuel flow test but the nitrous one will have to wait as I think I'm all out now lol but will get it refilled this week

All the coils physically look okay but I guess that means absolutely sod all so will wait till after payday and get a tester

I found some 4mm olives so the pipes are now around 2-2.5 inches shorter than before

You are in a very dangerous frame of mind right now. Something is wrong, and you are trying to add even more power to the engine.

The first thing you need to do is get the fault codes read, and a read out of the LTFT and STFTs. If there is a spark or fuel issue, it should show up there.

I disagree with your use of water injection on an N/A engine. Usually we are trying to lower the grains of water in air, not increase it. If you had boost, this would be a different case, but even then I still don't agree with water injection. On my own car, I use pure methanol in it's own fuel cell. (HFS-6 system from Howerton Engineering)

Yes I do know of ways of controlling both the spark and fuel on the M54B30, but until you fix your other problem....there's just no point of making your engine control more complicated.

You may have a VANOS issue that's causing all the noise...very common on older M54s. Dr.Vanos has a kit to rebuild the control mechanism that is sometimes the cause of this rattling.

I wouldn't do any nitrous testing until you get the engine issue(s) resolved.

BTW, I could be completely wrong about the effects of your CAI, but that doesn't change the fact that you have an issue.

Okada makes some really good ignition coils for the M54.

No you have me all wrong I'm not trying to increase power I want the power I have to work I don't even know if it's knock because I DONT have the metallic ratteling sound at any time on nitrous or off I have zero problems with the engine when it's off nitrous it runs perfectly I have a code reader and in the 2 years I have had the car it's never had any codes come up and even with the nitrous no codes are present I'm honestly trying to find the problem with what I have and have no intention of a power increase any time soon especially with these issues

I don't have the vanos rattle or anything like I say the car works perfect normally and has never had a problem the reason I asked if you new ways to read ignition timing and knock was for fault finding only to see if it's that if there are no knock counts it's deffo not that so can explore the next route of fault finding the request for ways to retard the ignition was if I found any problems I could deal with them that way

I don't think the cai would cause a problem but the only way to tell is to remove it which is what I'm going to do this weekend and drop the old airbox back in

Like I say I have no interest increasing power output any time soon even after this issue Is sorted

Water injection is disconnected now so not affecting anything

Sorry if that came across as snappy but all my attention is on sorting the problem and nothing more

You've stated that it felt like the car was knocking, and previously that it was loosing power in stages. I don't fully understand the nature of your issues, but I would start by putting the car on a dyno for some baseline pulls. Then I'd start working with nitrous. That's just my way, and you've read my threads and how I'm super detailed and go "big" on everything so you know where I'm coming from....I just like to test and be methodical with data versus perception.

I am going on a dyno on the 3rd of next month to get a couple of NA runs and if the results come through okay and clean power curves I will try a run on nitrous and see what that shows on the printout and hopefully it will show AFR on them and then I can then take a pic of them and upload them on here

Where's the dyno located?

http://www.bmwspecialistleicester.co.uk/

That's the place were going it's a BMW rolling road day think there will be about 12 cars there