NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

Just thought I'd get this thread started showing the progress of my install and hopefully some 1/4 mile numbers at the start of next year.

The engine came standard as a 5 litre V8, so instead of writing a novel I'll just give you the short of it.

-Billet steel 5.8 litre crankshaft
-Forged 4340 shot peened H-beam rods with ARP 2000 series bolts
-Wiseco Forged pistons (8.2:1 compression)
-Splayed 4 bolt mains caps with ARP studs
-Bronze lifter sleeves
-Aluminium heads with roller rockers and ARP studs
-Ferrea Stainless steel valves
-Dual conical valve springs
-Pontiac roller lifters
-Hardened pushrods
-Custom camshaft
-Cometic head gaskets
-M112 Eaton Supercharger
-Custom water to air intercooler
-90mm throttle body
-x8 42lb Ford motorsport injectors
-Walbro in tank fuel pump
-x2 Bosch 044 fuel pumps (one for nitrous only) on custom surge tank
-Lots of Earls plumbing

Makes 433rwhp (about 520-530ish at the fly), through an Auto with a high stall converter.

Nitrous system:

Made some brackets for the pulsoids, and before you ask, yes the countersunk bolts are longer to suit the thicker bracket, they are between 0.1 and 0.2mm shy of the bottom of the pulsoid body thread.
The jetting will be done with inline jet holders which go at the end of the y-blocks for a few reasons:
-The distribution y-blocks are above the fogger nozzles so distribution won't be even
-One of the fogger nozzles is under the throttle body so it will have more bends and different length lines to it
-Hopefully the car will get the front wheels in the air so this wont make the y-blocks horizontal anymore and maybe lead to the rear lines getting more
-Also it would be good to be able to tune each cylinder individually if need be

I have a progressive controller, wideband A/F ratio monitor which can cut off the nitrous, and a 3 stage ignition retard control module.

Some photos so far.

The Nos fogger nozzles fit the 4mm nylon line perfect with a few mods to a -3AN cap

Facinating list of mods.
Can't wait to hear your times next year

The mounting brackets look SUPERB - lovely work.

I'm just a little apprehensive about whether the pipe work will be even but as you've done such a good job of the bracket I assume you've taken that in to account, so I'm looking forward to seeing it plumbed up.

Hey Richard, yeah I'll have just a 100 shot to start with and hopefully crack into the 10's, very high 10 or very low 11 I'm predicting and then will step up to a 200 shot when I get some slicks and front runners.

Trev, the lines will be equal, I'll try to explain without a visual aid.
The 4 fogger nozzles on each side are exactly 110mm apart, for reasons being due to space I am mounting the 2 sets of pulsoids exactly perpendicular to nozzle numbers 2 and 3 (so each set of pulsoids is 110mm apart), the pulsoid set perpendicular to the 2nd nozzle will feed 1 & 3, and the pulsoid set perpendicular to the 3rd nozzle will feed 2 & 4. This keeps the pulsoids closer together so I am able to fit it next to the throttle body and on the other side there is a supercharger bypass regulator in the way. The offset of this is that the nylon lines will be slightly longer than if I were able to feed 1 & 2 together and 3 & 4 together.
Thanks for the compliments.

Paul

Some photos of the making of the brackets.

I have a CNC machine at work but it's only a 2 axis,and cuts timber only (I'm a cabinet maker). So I draw up the design and cut the shape from MDF board, trace it onto plate aluminium, jigsaw about 1mm off the line, bolt the template to the aluminium, then use a plunge router with a flush cutter and trace bearing, very carefully route the shape then spend a few hours with the sandpaper (I hate that part).

Paul

If you go straight into 10's as a street car, I'll go on a diet (that's the most drastic thing I can think of)

Don't think I could do that as I was using drag radials to get the 11.6, so you're safe to have another biscuit.

Paul

You're already in 11's !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pure automotive porn!

Quick question. Will you be running a wideband on both banks or just the one? Are you expecting the AFR to be the same on all cylinders with this configuration?

Mike

Once again nice work and I suspected that the pipe layout was going to be as you're intending and although the pipes crossing over won't look as neat as if you connected in adjoining pairs, I can see your reasoning for it and we've done the same thing ourselves a few times for similar reasons.

Paul!!
That looks so nice mate!!

I like it
But...

How is the weather over there? Lots of sun on the first pic.
I read 4°C over here


Greetigns Thomas

If the car was lighter I'd be knocking on the door of a 10, then the nitrous may get me close to a 9, but I can't see that happening. The car weighs 1600kg without me and it has IRS suspension which is not the best for drag.

Unfortunately just the one bank, I might put it on the opposite side to the ECU oxygen sensor? I will check all the plugs as a guide, as I don't know what A/F ratio my engine would like.

Yeah the lines will cross over, thats why I thought I would use black nylon line to try and hide it a bit.
Thanks Perry, you're still faster than me.
Hi Thomas, Summer is just about to kick in so 30 - 40 deg C is NOT what I like to drive in, I usually wait till Autumn (April-May) before I hit the track again. But the Nitrous will help keep them intake temps done over Summer.

Paul

Wow.....

Lovely work, nice job representing Australia on these boards!

Tell you what, I love the sleeper look on the outside, no-one would suspect a potential 10 second car as the pulled up next to you. Smooth.
Sam

Thanks Sam, the other sleeper thing about it is that it doesn't have a big lumpy cam, just 222deg @ 0.050" on the intake and 227 on exhaust, so she has a nice rumble to it. I have 5 year old tyres(lucky to of lasted this long) that are very hard and traction is rubbish on the street. Anyone know of a good brand of street tyre that gives some grip?


Paul

Modification of Earls dash 3AN cap.

This is quite fiddly, cut the end (where the pressed out edges are) of a couple of mm from the top so that the inner piece can come out from the tube nut, then you are able to modify the inner sleeve piece.
First is to drill a 4mm hole through it, and then grind or file back the other end where it meets the olive, if this is not done then the inner sleeve will hit the chunky part of the olive and not the part that is suppose to clamp down. Some photos.

Paul

Hi Paul. I just got hold of a pair of these Federal SS595RS-R semi slicks from an Ebay auction for a bargain. Treadwear 140. They replaced my Goodyear F1 Asymmetric tyres as they were badly worn.
I feel these tyres are a good compromise between streetability and traction.

Another Paul.

Hi another Paul, the tyres I have now that are rock hard are Federal 595, but I'm not sure if they are "R" semi slicks?
I'll check when I get home, I have heard good things about them though.

Paul

Hey Paul, I think I might look into those Federal 595RS-R, I had a look on a few forums and some say RE55s are better but they take longer to heat up and wear quicker, so 595RS-R it is.

Got my in-line jet holders yesterday and put them on this morning. Still waiting on a 5mm hand tube bender from US to finish the pulsoid inlet plumbing.

Paul

EXCELLENT work Paul - looks perfect.

BTW we could have included a pipe bender with the jet holders.

I had already ordered the bender before I noticed you had one in your webstore, bugger.

Paul

Lovely job, Paul. Looks like you went your own way sorting out a cooler for the 112. Some of the guys here could do with that as it's a real expensive retro-fit. I'm watching with interest.

Thanks mate, yeah I had an intercooler custom made which was very expensive. Having the core made to the size I wanted was a one-off run and that was over $1,000 aus dollars, then some chunky billet sides so the supercharger can bolt on, and the 2 end tanks. It all adds up, but when you have your heart set on doing something, money has to take the back seat.
The most ridiculous thing I have spent money on is the billet oil cap on the rocker covers, that cost me $550 aus to make. It has the Holden emblem 3D CNC'ed into it. $350 to get the emblem 3D scanned from a badge that came off a hubcap from another model, then $200 to CNC machine it. I'm not one for buying something off the shelf

Thought I'd share an old youtube clip of the Holden at the drags without Nos. P.S. Speedo is in kph. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wQJwi6QomU

Paul