NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

It seems like I've slowed down on making my YouTube videos recently and that is correct. I stopped making them due to starting up my college courses again and my time is limited to riding my scooter and spraying the hell out of it. Plus, my laptop that I made the videos on took a shit so I'm on my Mac that I use for work purposes only.

I'm also quite busy on a new project, which has been somewhat of a headache. Some of you may or may not have noticed that my signature has an extra vehicle in it. It is a Lexus GS with a 2jz single turbo engine and it is a hell of a rocket. Well, that car is currently under the knife as it burned a hole in the #1 piston and needs to be replaced. The reason is that the last person who tuned the car did a shit job and I didn't play it safe like I should have and I'm paying the consequences for the errors of my ways.

Anyway, I'm spending most of my time getting this car back on the road and I'll be taking it to be tuned properly before ripping on it. But the question is, will it get the nitrous treatment? .... BET YOUR ASS IT'S GONNA GET IT! The turbo on this car takes a while to spool it up on take-off, so the juice will take care of this problem, keep performance strong in my hot climate, and reduce the detonation threshold for increased reliability. I can't wait to get this car to where it should be!

Most people seem to think that nitrous is the only engine killer but turbos can and do kill engines just as easily.

Just as in this case, it's all about DOING THE JOB CORRECTLY or paying the price for NOT DOING SO regardless of whether it's turbo, nitrous or even NA.

So very true! In this case, it took a mere split second for it to happen this badly as I let off as soon as I heard it detonate, but alas, it was already bellowing smoke like an old coal-burning train. I don't think I've even blown an engine that fast on nitrous lol!

It will make a comeback soon enough and with a marriage to a WON system!

If I had the funds for a forged system, I'd just do a direct port and blast 200+ on the juice! This engine has plenty of turbo to be close to 800 hp, which is about the limit I'll go on factory parts. I think I'll leave it at 6-700 and let the juice do the rest.

I played with turbo's before I decided to try nitrous and I killed the first engine within 10 minutes of use from ALL NEW and broke all 4 pistons. By the time I limped home all the oil had been blown out of the engine and the entire thing was scrap.

In contrast to that, I once blew a piston in my V8 on a BIG dose of nitrous during a Drag race. All I did was remove the plug and HT lead and I still went on to win the event, beating BIGGER V8s using US JUNK kits that were on ALL 8 cylinders.

It was GREAT to show my LITTLE V8 on ONLY 7 CYLINDERS using my own nitrous system could beat BIG V8's using the BEST THE REST could do.

The motor ONLY needed ONE piston to make it fully functional again.

ALL the damage I've ever done to my engines, has been due to MY LACK OF KNOWLEDGE OR MY MISTAKES (or those of my employees) at the time. If I could do a re-run of my life with the knowledge I have now, I would NOT damage anything.

The sooner other people start taking responsibility for their own failings the sooner the truth will prevail about nitrous oxide, as it is NOT INHERENTLY an engine killer, LACK OF KNOWLEDGE & MISTAKES OF ANY KIND KILL ENGINES.

Lol great story!

At least I realize my mistake and will have to start from scratch as far as the tune on this engine. It is running on a full standalone from AEM so it can be tuned for many parameters. The fuel system is also E85 compatible and has made over 600 hp through the automatic.

Luckily, I live close to the 2jz gurus at Titan Motorsports. Hopefully they can help me get this ridiculous tune straightened out.

I'd like to have a luxury missile at my old age lol!

Sounds good to me.

Finally got some parts in. It took some time to think about what I wanted to do but I found that all of my pistons had the top ring land hammered into the top compression ring; therefore, I needed all new pistons anyway. Purchasing a full piston and ring set was almost $700 online, but I found that it's only marginally more expensive for a forged piston set and rings. After shopping around, I decided to ditch the stock connecting rods for some heavy duty ones just because I already gutted the block. It didn't make sense to use the stock ones and eventually desire more power, especially on nitrous, so then I would have to do another tear down for that purpose. Furthermore, a failure of a stock rod would destroy the head, block, AND crank, which would set me back thousands more. Hence, I ended up buying the best combo for my price range.

I'll be doing the blue printing over the next few weeks and begin putting everything together. I'll be driving this car everyday until it breaks in, then it's off to the dyne to correct that crap tune.

Nice parts but it infuriates me that NO piston company has the sense to FULLY radius ALL multi angle aspects of the pistons DESPITE having the technology to do so very easily and at very little more cost.

NO engine (NA, blown, turbo'd or nitrous) runs as efficiently and as safely as one that has fully radiused pistons.

I know! But there isn't anything available off the shelf, I'd have to get custom made pistons in order to get a full radius. I'll just have to make do. I'll be smoothing out the sharp edges of the piston to avoid hot spots that could invade detonation.

That's my point, even off the shelf pistons would benefit from being fully radiused and as the modern machinery is more than capable of doing that in seconds, you'd think they'd do that to them all or at least one company would be smart enough to do so.

I'm finally to the point of putting the engine back together. I'm hoping to have it ready to run within the next few weeks. I'm sure I'll run into some unexpected problems before it's roadworthy.

Looking good.

It would be looking much better strapped to a dyno and making somewhere along the lines of 800 hp on the juice!

Its gonna be a sweet Engine I think

It's just a strengthened rebuild. I just wanted to make sure that the gasket is clamped down hard with the studs for nitrous use. Plus, I've gapped the rings for boost & nitrous.

I'm looking for 100-150 shot to take me to my 800 goal. I'm using a factory Toyota gasket that is commonly used in near 1000 hp cars. The 2jz is extremely overengineered, which is what makes it such an awesome platform. Honestly, the connecting rods are so beefy that my goals could have been reached on them. However, I went for the after market rods that further support more power and weigh much less. I've saved over 370 grams per cylinder over stock components!

Trev,

It seems like there is going to be some competition around the office. A coworker is talking a lot of smack about building a 600 hp honda. I might have to raise my power goal to 1000 to maintain my "King Shit" status . With my car making 700 bhp, what system could be used to yield the extra 300? I like to make sure that no one takes my crown.

ENFURIATING!!!

I can't get the crankshaft pulley bolt off this bloody thing! I'm gonna have to weld up a 5 foot bar in order to break the torque off of this demon spawn!





By the way, I need access to the oil pump because a seal ruptured and dumped all of my oil out.... WHAT A MESS!!!

A SHORT RIGID bar given a BIG CLOUT may be a better option, as a long bar and leverage has no shock impact and that is often required to break the securing lock between threads.

BTW I've always been able to fix any problem with a big hammer.

I need a new one of these:

Is that a problem?

It is a common problem for these seals to fail since it sits next to the oil pump gerotor. Either A) the oil drain is blocked and allowing the oil to escape out the front seal, B) the rotors are worn/cracked allowing pressurized oil to overcome the drain hole and again forcing oil out the front crank seal, or C) blockage in the oil passages and resulting in B.

So the best/safest solution for me is to replace the oil pump as a whole.

Agreed and that's what most people do on engines like that.

The oil pump was just removed and I was able to do so with the engine still in the car. This is quite an accomplishment because the oil pan MUST be removed to get the oil pump to slide off the crank and the oil pan is an integral part of the engine.

I'll order up the necessary parts next week and I should be back on the road again in two weeks. I REALLY want to get this car straightened out for some NITROUS FUN!

I had to raise the engine itself about 4 inches in order to reach all of the hardware that holds on the primary and secondary oil pans. And getting the sealant to let go of it took about 2 hours and a lot of fighting. I almost gave up for the night until I found the perfect tool to pry it loose.



This pic shows where the pump mounts to and the two arrows show where the oil was leaking from. When I drained the oil there was about 2 liters left in the pan. Luckily, no bearings were damaged nor was there any evidence of cylinder wall damage from what I could see. Engine still ran perfectly because it maintained enough pressure to keep a thin film on everything.