F.A.O. The hard of thinking.
You'll note that this post includes the sentence;
"
WARNING Flush all oil out of the pipe before using it for nitrous, there is a possibility of fire when mixing oil and an oxidising agent."
Thats because this test was done using hydraulic test equipment and in the main we use whats going to be used in the pipe as the testing medium,
if you didn't know already your nitrous bottle was tested using WATER. Look up "hydrostatic testing" sometime.
Compressed air ? Well i could have used air, I could have used Nitrogen even easier since it's a ready supply of 3000psi pressure
(Typical storage pressure in an industrial nitrogen bottle)
Yes i used ceramic heaters for the test, my test tank is rated for hot testing but i don't have the immersion heaters, big deal.
Did I use a suitable heat gained in exactly the way it's found in an engine bay ?
Lets see now, radiant and convected heat.
Yep.
Knock it all you want, we're laughing AT you, not with you.
Right, seeing as some companies seem to think anti-advertising is good marketing and after seeing some right crap being posted I had one of my rare brainwaves. Take some to work and bloody well test the stuff !
Ok, I'll admit i'm ever so slightly biased, I can hardly hide that fact can I ?
BUT
I am
independant
Now theres a FACT you can try arguing, or should i say insinuating ?
I am not paid by the "Wizards of NOS" but quite how i can demonstrate my impartiality during this test i don't know.
I suppose if it had failed and i'd posted the results.....................
But it didn't (no supprise there then)
Ok, I used the automotive fuel pipe safety factor standards (BSAU108/2)
of a 3-1 burst pressure and 90 degree C temperature.
(Well if its good enough for the car manufacturers
)
and used my old friend............................
My 10,000 psi pressure pump and "burst tank"
(BTW the PLASTIC hose that connects the two has a 40,000 psi burst rating
)
Put it this way, I can burst almost ANY pipe if i want to.
Right, well i thought a 1000 psi would be a nice round number for a working pressure.
safety factor of 3 gives us 3000 psi theoretical burst pressure
(actually the burst pressure of the bottle, standard burst discs designed to save the bottle are rated at 2755 psi So think of it as I'm trying to burst the bottle, not the pipe)
Now I used a standard 4meter length of pipe as supplied by Wizards not just a short test section.
(I keep a 4mm length and a 5mm length with USA adaptors for demonstrating the benefits to disbelievers, always works !)
First I had to steal a couple of ceramic heaters from the canteen, pipes aren't usually tested under high temp conditions, chuck the pipe in the test tank, connect it up.
All tests at
90 degrees C (or near enough, i had to keep switching it on and off because the thermostat didn't agree this was sensible :roll: )
4mm x 4meter pipe. 2 hours at 3000 psi
PASSED
5mm x 4meter pipe. 2 hours at 3000 psi
PASSED
So, thats both sizes, survived the burst pressure of the bottle, for 2 hours under engine bay heat, just in case you're a bit hard of thinking.
And just for a laugh (I'm a sicko)
Standard 4mm low pressure pipe as used between solenoid and injector.
300 psi crossed fingers
500 psi shut eyes
750 psi check its still connected
1000 psi WTF ?????
1250 psi Eh ?
AT BLOODY LAST ! 1480 psi !!!!!!
Not bad considering even mad Americans don't pressurise it above 1050psi
Now this is the crappy standard pipe people keep going on about !
Remember, in a Wizards kit it doesn't even see pressure because the jets are before it, how the hell the Americans are bursting this stuff even with their higher injector pressures i don't know, they must be using some right cheapy crap.
So there you go, an INDEPENDANT (even if I am biased) pressure test of Wizards high pressure delivery pipe.
Do it yourself ! Find a hydraulics company and ask them to pressure test a piece, take the adaptors too because you don't usually adapt or test nylon pipe like this, the cheap crappy stuff is usually used below 150 psi so doesn't need testing.
WARNING Flush all oil out of the pipe before using it for nitrous, there is a possibility of fire when mixing oil and an oxidising agent.
To the DIPSTICKS posting such rubbish;
Don't make it so damn easy too discredit the crap you come out with, my copy of BS EN 849:1997 is on order because the pages i read didn't specifically say brass, they said SUITABLE MATERIAL TO BS849:1997 with regard to all of the various tests for valve material.
See you soon guys !
(I'm allowed to rise to the bait, i'm not a responsible nitrous system manufacturer.)